Pudu's Famous Curry Puffs

A former welder takes great pride in his curry puffs.

THERE is something irresistible about Lai Tuck of the unassuming Tuck Kee Puff stall in Jalan Pasar, Kuala Lumpur.

Not that the 56-year-old former welder has any resemblance to Brad Pitt or Antonio Banderas but this curry puff vendor has such a positive aura about him that one cannot help but be uplifted by the energy.

Personal touch: Lai still makes his curry puffs by hand to maintain the taste.

Come rain or shine, Lai’s face is stretched out in a warm smile and maybe because he is always ever-ready for conversation, he often has chums stopping by for chit chat and for a taste of his delectable puffs.

Born, bred and schooled in Pudu, Lai gave his account of what Pudu was like in the bygone days.

“I have seen Pudu transform from a farmland to an ‘electronic street,’ ” said this affable character who has been serving his freshly fried puffs to the denizens of Jalan Pasar since 1968.

And what must have made Lai as popular as his curry puff was that his stories were often interspersed with messages of life’s lessons.

One of his favourite messages is to insist that youngsters should stand on their own two feet instead of relying on their parents.

“My father passed away when I was 13 and after Form 3, I could not afford to further my studies.

“But never have I looked back to lament on why my father didn’t leave me an inheritance. Instead, I just went out and looked for something I could do to make a living,” said Lai.

Lai, who considers himself as “self-made”, said that only by being independent can one realise one’s self-worth. His curry puff business is 100% his own effort.

In between snippets of how he had come to meet his 22-year-old Vietnamese wife, Nguyen Siew Wan, and how his late father, Lai Kow, used to be a merry-go-round driver at BB Park (the amusement park has since become a food court), Lai would reveal that he had learnt the art of curry puff making from an old master in Jalan Imbi, whom he had worked for after being retrenched from his welding job.

It then dawned upon this father of two that striking out on his own would be a good idea. After surveying the Jalan Pasar area and realising that there were no other curry puff vendors there, he decided to create his own niche market.

Hefty filling: No meat in my puff? Lai gamely breaks one to back his claim.

He would have two varieties of meat puffs, chicken and mutton, in addition to introducing another line of sweet doughnut puffs with red bean, kaya and peanut.

Response must have been good as Lai often had to whip up a third batch for sale by noon. In addition, Lai’s puffs are party favourites as he also fulfils many requests for outside catering.

Naturally, Lai will not reveal his “secret” recipe.

“If you sign up for a curry puff making course with me, I’ll teach you the rudiments for a small fee,” he joked.

On a serious note, Lai pointed out that he had maintained his rightful place in the same spot for 40 years because he had managed to keep the taste of his curry puffs constant.

“That is the most important factor to surviving as a food vendor. Once your diners have gotten used to the taste of your food, you have to ensure that this will be the taste for all 365 days of the year.

“This is why I insisted on making my curry puffs by hand. You can imagine how very few off days I can take.

“Even then, I am reluctant to do so because once I got my brother to take my place, my customers complained that the taste had run,” revealed Lai.

Pudu folks, according to Lai, are the most discerning food critics. If there is not enough meat in the curry puffs they will not hesitate to say things like ‘These are fake meat curry puffs.’ ”

Some will even go as far as accusing Lai of cutting back on ingredients and taking shortcuts with his work!

At such times, said Lai, diplomacy was the only way to go.

But in answer to some of his critics who have complained about the lack of meat, Lai would implore them to look at the situation realistically.

“Look, you can’t expect to find a kilo of mutton in the puff as that would push the cost way beyond anyone’s reach,” laughed Lai, who charges no less than RM2 for his puffs.

Still the proof was in the eating. One regular customer who was purchasing his afternoon snack from Lai said a matter-of-factly that as long as he liked what he tasted, Lai’s puffs would remain his favourite staple.

His customers’ discerning taste buds keep Lai on his toes. However, this easy-going character said he was not about to let this stress him out.

Hot from the wok: Lai’s curry puffs are a trademark in Jalan Pasar

The lesson to be learnt here, maintained Lai, is to know how to be contented.

“I don’t have big dreams of driving a Mercedes or riding a Virago. I don’t have such high expectations of life. As long as I am able to have three square meals and provide for my family, I am happy,” said Lai, who now resides in a housing estate in Cheras Indah.

The notion of Lai passing the business to his children – his two-year-old daughter and three-month-old son – made him break out in laughter.

“Aiyah! They are still too young to be interested in curry puff making. I am sure that they will find electronic products more stimulating than rolling dough when they are grown up.

“Nevertheless, I’d be more than happy to show them how it’s done if they are interested,” said Lai with an air of certainty.

• Tuck Kee Puff Stall is at 52, Jalan Pasar, Kuala Lumpur (Opposite RHB Bank. Tel: 016-273 9389).