For a golden goose

Rain or shine, this roadside stall loyally serves up its signature roasted goose.

IT WAS literally pouring.

The spray of rain got into the rice, mixed in with the soup and gave the cut of a diner’s roasted goose drumstick such a generous sprinkling that she had to reluctantly leave her meal midway to find a drier spot at Chong Foo Chuan’s roadside stall in Pudu, Kuala Lumpur.

As if the soaking was not enough, a sudden gust of wind sent plates, bowls and cutlery flying, splashing soup and gravy all over the stools and the already wet floor.

Yellow powder: The turmeric rice is a diners’ favourite.

Despite the wet lunch outing, the dining crowd stuck it out until they finished their meal.

This show of loyalty was proof that Chong, 43, did have a winning recipe in his roasted geese.

For the uninitiated, the Pudu area is a heaven for this delicacy.

Just like diners will flock to Ampang for yong tau foo or to Klang for bak kut teh, Pudu is the place to head for when one gets the craving for roasted goose.

There are about 20 such stalls in this area. Chong is one of those stallowners and he has been making a living by the golden roast since he left school at Form 3.

Chong, who has been plying his trade in the same spot for 30 years, is the second generation to take over from his father, Chong Kok Hoong, now 70.

Real pro: There is no doubt that Chong really knows how to cook his goose

Though retired, Kok Hoong can still be seen helping his son at the stall on Sundays.

“I was always known as the Goose Seller’s son in school and I never minded being addressed as such,” revealed this cheerful father of three.

In his reasoning, it was something to be proud of because a good roast was the domain of an expert.

“Whether it be duck, chicken or pork, a piece of good roasted meat requires three things.

“The first thing is the right marinade where I will use rice wine, five-spice powder and dong kwai and other secret ingredients.

“The meat will have to soak in this for at least 24 hours. Next is the correct amount of heat and third is great patience,” said Chong.

No, he insisted, there was no such thing as leaving the meat in the charcoal grill and going off to watch TV. In his case, for the duration of the one hour that it takes for a goose to cook, it will be constantly turned to achieve an even golden roast.

Soury delight: The side dish of mustard leaves made by Connie is a must-have.

“The mark of a good roasted goose is in its crisp skin and juicy flesh and there are no short cuts to achieving this,” he insisted with a knowing smile.

What goes with such delectable game, you ask?

At Chen Chen BBQ, which Chong runs, a cut of roast goose is usually served with turmeric rice and this is sold out by lunch time.

Many diners also ask for a side dish of Chinese mustard leaves (kai choy) in a watery gravy made sour by tamarind pieces and spiced up with dried chillies.

This is a traditional classic by itself and no two versions of this dish are alike in taste mainly because the secret to its delectable quality lies in last night’s leftovers.

In Chong’s case, it would be the bones from the roasted duck and geese which will impart their flavour to this mustard leaf soup.

Also of note is the dipping sauce to accompany the goose meat which is actually plum and seafood sauce combined together.

A clear soup is always present and this varies daily from lotus root with peanuts or watercress and red dates.

Love me and my goose: Chong with his wife, Connie, whom he impressed with his roasted geese, seen here packing chilli sauce into plastic bags.

Diners can also request for meat balls to be added in to make the soup more substantial. Regular favourites also include a dish of goose intestines and gizzards drizzled in a soya sauce.

For a treat, the braised pork leg made by Chong’s wife, Connie Sia, 43, is recommended. Otherwise, there are other roasted meats like chicken, duck and pork to choose from.

Do take note that the speciality on Sundays here is the spicy goose tongue dish, which has a crunchy bite to it.

As for how Chong will rate among the competition, the answer would be a matter of individual taste.

However, there is no doubt that Chong really knows how to cook his goose.

To attest to this, it was this very same skill that had endeared Sia, Chong’s wife of 17 years, to him in the first place.

“I was working long hours and had no days off so it was very hard to socialise. Fortunately, Sia would become my regular customer so I impressed her in the only way I knew how,” revealed Chong cheekily.

Chen Chen BBQ is at Jalan Seladang, Off Lorong Yap Hin, Kuala Lumpur (Tel: 012-233 3083. Open: 9am-6pm. Non-halal).