Dim Sum At Pudu Cafe

Its royal roots may have something to do with the way dim sum is regarded in the diner’s eyes.

DIM SUM mornings, as Stephen Wong of Pudu Cafe will attest, are moments of dainty elegance.

The story behind the origins of dim sum, according to this 58-year-old civil engineer, dates back to the imperial courts of China where it was customary for the emperor to be served 1,000 different dishes at every meal.

It was after all, an apt way to honour the son of heaven but alas, the emperor’s gut would not have the same proportions as his vast empire.

So, the imperial chef came up with the brilliant solution of reducing the portions to manageable bite-sized dumplings, all with different fillings and flavours.

And that, more or less, was how dim sum was invented.

Stephen Wong: ‘To enjoy dim sum is to enjoy life.’

Perhaps its royal roots may have something to do with the way dim sum is regarded in the diner’s eyes.

A proper dim sum meal is never hurried, should most ideally be partaken sitting down and always accompanied with delicate cups of well-brewed Chinese tea, gently sipped and ceremoniously replenished.

And because of its leisurely demeanour, dim sum sessions are apt moments for the revealing of grand plans, a bit of soul baring and jovial get-togethers among old friends.

For Wong, who took over the running of this dim sum restaurant from a relative who had to retire due to ill health eight years ago, having dim sum meals is also one way of eating light.

“I shudder at the thought of the amount of oil in fried noodles or nasi lemak.

“My dim sums are nothing like that. I use only lean minced pork, and even then I add in more fish paste and chopped water chestnuts.

“When I first introduced the change, someone remarked that I would close shop in three months!

“He said that a lot of Chinese customers who were used to having a lot of oil and pork in the dim sums would not like my version.

“It’s been eight years now and the complainant is still coming over to my restaurant for his morning dim sum,” laughed Wong.

So particular is Wong about the oil issue that he will not even hear of having the regular deep-fried favourites such as yam cutlets and sesame balls in his menu.

“Sorry, but I think they are unhealthy. What I will allow are baked items like the meat buns and egg tarts.

“I have also introduced vegetarian paus which are a favourite with the ladies,” he said.

That aside, Wong offered a tip in looking out for stale dim sums.

“Watch out for any yellowy or blackish fillings. This means that the dim sums have been left overnight and are not fresh,” he said.

Ask Wong where he got the gumption to make such changes to a traditional Chinese favourite well known for its lack of respect for cholesterol and sodium levels and he simply answered that he had gotten his courage from providence.

“When I was offered to take over this restaurant, I did a lot of soul searching.

“At first, I thought I’d replace it with a Western menu featuring steaks and sandwiches but one old timer from Pudu warned me that if I did that only ghosts would come here to eat!”

After much deliberating, Wong found the answer one stormy night.

“It was raining heavily and there was thunder and lightning. At that time, I was praying and the answer struck me like a thunderous awakening – there was no doubt that I was meant to take over the dim sum restaurant,” Wong recalled.

So, with RM145,000 as capital to refurbish the place, Wong strode ahead and made the necessary changes.

The last word from Wong not only mirrored his outlook on the trend of dim sum mornings but on life as well.

“To enjoy dim sum is to enjoy life. Just sit down, look at the scene, read a newspaper, you’ll get what I mean,” he smiled.

Pudu Cafe is located at 45, Jalan Pasar Baru, Off Jalan Pudu, Kuala Lumpur (03-9223 7645 / Open: 6am-2pm. Non-halal).