Hill Stories

The charm of Fraser’s Hill lies in its tranquil setting and friendly people. Accessible only through a 9km narrow, windy road which curves around a lush, green virgin forest, the trip is a worthwhile one for the weary urban soul.

Here are some questions for the urban traveller.

How many times can you go for one of those long, pleasant walks in the cool mountain air along flower dotted paths?

For how long will you be awed by the breathtaking scenery of the rolling Titiwangsa Range at 1260 metres above sea level with the mist falling over the lush green jungles like veils in the soft morning light?

How many times are you going to traverse the nature trails (there are eight of them in total) where the keen eye may come across some of the world’s rarest species of birds?

And how long will it be before you get tired of the cool sereneness of Fraser’s Hill after the wearying battle of an unrelenting heat wave in a busy smog filled city?

The answer to all of the above may well be never!

It is in such relative peace, that the holiday maker may find himself with an endless list of activities on a hill that has garnered a reputation for being a tranquil mountain.

You can go for boat rides at Allan’s Water (a tranquil lake near a nursery) horse riding and archery at The Paddock which overlooks the vast expanse of the Fraser’s Hill Golf Club, and learn from Nathan Sevalinggam, a mini market owner, how to fuel your car with a cone and funnel after buying petrol from his sundry shop (there’s no petrol kiosk in Fraser’s Hill) . For a bit of adventure, there is a waterfall you can go to after a quick bite at the stalls in Jalan Lady Maxwell.

In addition, let’s not forget the stories. Right in the center of town, there is a tale of Louis James Fraser, a tin prospector, whom the hill was named after. Fraser had used the area as a trading post in the 1890s and rumour has it that he also ran a gambling and opium den too. Mysteriously, Fraser was last seen hauling his mules loaded with tin ore and heading for the mountains some time in the late 1890s and was never seen again.

If you are taking a trek up Hemmant’s trail, you will also see the ruins of two concrete structures, which according to Jason Netto, the resident manager of Fraser’s Pine Resort, were believed to be military bunkers built during the Japanese occupation. He hinted that in addition to storing ammunition, it may have also be used as a hiding place to hoard stolen gold.

Another point of interest is Bishop Trail where four boys got lost in 2005 and survived for four days in the jungle without food. Netto, who had taken an active part in the search, revealed that he had sought the help of a tuk batin (which means shaman) in the rescue efforts.

“He told me that the children were safe but they were trapped by jungle spirits who had taken a liking to the youngest boy,” revealed Netto.

Netto’s colourful story would include the sacrifice of a white chicken whom he had gone to great lengths to obtain and of how three men would trek 20 km into the heart of the jungle to find the four boys by a stream.

“The tuk batin told me how he cried tears of joy when the youngest boy ran up to him and had hugged him out of sheer relief that all were safe and sound,” recalled Netto who was briefing the Sultan of Pahang at the town’s police station when the news reached him.

The moral of the above story, said Netto, is that one must remember to ask the spirits for permission whenever one wants to go into the jungle. Trekkers must also be mindful not to raise their ire by pulling up the plants or easing themselves under a tree as it may be home to a spirit.

Stories aside, also note that Fraser’s Hill is not known as Little England for nothing. The charming English style bungalows are a reminiscent of the colonial days and you can experience what living in one is like from Highlands Resthouse Holdings.

These abodes come complete with caretakers like Lim Tee Tuang, 69, a retired teacher, who takes care of the Dacres Bungalow in Jalan Sri Pahang. Lim, a father of three who came to Fraser’s Hill in 1968, revealed that Dacres has seen many return guests who flock to the hill to find retreat in the peace and quiet.

This article was sponsored by Fraser’s Pine Resort and the people of Fraser’s Hill. A special mention of gratitude also goes to Daud Ramli who had opened his stables just so that my sons could have their morning ride. Heigh Ho Daud!