Made to measure

Boots and shoes, are painstakingly produced to individual tastes.

The strong smell of glue seemed to emanate from the rows of leather boots and gentlemen’s shoes on display in Rahmat Mokhtar’s shoe shop. How this boot-maker and his staff of three were able to work in the chemical-laden air is a mystery.

“We’re used to it but maybe you should step out of my workshop. You might get dizzy,” said the 39-year-old Rahmat with genuine concern. But there was nowhere to go. So for the writer’s sake, Rahmat fastened the caps on some opened cans of glue, hoping this would make a difference. It didn’t.

Rahmat may or may not be aware of the dangers of prolonged solvent inhalation but either way, this Negri Sembilan native did not think it was a matter of great importance.

Sense of fun: Rahmat Mokhtar isn’t averse to playing dress up for our cameras.

He reckoned that if he could survive a head-on crash with a lorry in 1991, the smell of glue was a trivial matter.

“The accident made me realise that I should never do things in a hurry,” said Rahmat of the life lesson learned from the ordeal. Today, the scars on his face and forearms serve as a reminder that life is to be appreciated.

Rahmat, the youngest of seven siblings, said he had taken up shoe-making soon after he left his hometown of Serting Ulu for Kuala Lumpur at the age of 18.

“I started work as an assistant for Mohamad Affendi, an Indonesian who specialised in leather products. He treated me like a brother and taught me how to make leather boots. One reason I had taken a liking to the craft was because he was such a good teacher,” recalled Rahmat.

With no formal training, Rahmat had to rely on experience to be his tutor and that was how in 1989, Rahmat became a street cobbler in Jalan Chow Kit.

Then there was no institute offering shoe-making courses so he learned everything through observation. One of the first things he recalled doing was to help Abang Pin prepare the materials needed to make footwear in addition to sweeping up before closing shop. Those early years, he recalled, were fun because Abang Pin was the ‘sporting’ type.

Take your pick: Colourful boots for all occasions line the walls of Rahmat’s shoe shop.

“One important value that my family taught me is when it comes to choosing one’s career, it is very important that you like what you do,” said Rahmat.

And making shoes, decided Rahmat would be his calling. Today, equine riders usually find themselves at Rahmat’s shop to have him measure their feet for riding boots. Even the repairs of their reins and bridles are done by him.

“It is not exactly a glamorous line to be in. Most times, it’s a matter of ensuring that my customers’ boots are made according to their specification and they are mostly equine sportsmen who are more particular about safety features rather than style.”

Still, the crucial point for Rahmat has always been the fit of the footwear he makes.

“One of the biggest slip-ups I made resulted in a customer not being able to zip up his boots because I had made a mistake with the measurement of the boot top. That kind of thing, I do my best to avoid,” he smiled sheepishly.

Meanwhile, the rate of production for Rahmat’s handcrafted boots is three pairs for every two days but customers are requested to give him at least 10 days for a job well done.

Prices start from RM200 for casual gentlemen’s shoes and RM350 for boots.

For the sake of trivia, in all his 21 years as boot-maker, Rahmat has never owned or worn a pair of boots, preferring the comfort of slippers instead.

The father of three girls aged 10, 9 and 3 said: “I don’t see the necessity as I don’t ride horses or own a motorcycle. Besides, it’s cooler to wear slippers as I move around a lot.”

Leather Point is located at FF22, Bazaar Pertama, Pertama Complex, Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman, Kuala Lumpur, or call 012-357 7295.

Patch up job

Ngadia Sunarpi and Rahmawan are the people to see if you want to repair that old pair of jeans.

DO you have a pair of old and frayed jeans you want to repair?

Look for Ngadia Sunarpi and his son, Rahmawan, jeans repair and leather works specialists at Pertama Complex in Kuala Lumpur.

Precision work: Leather and denim have to blend smoothly.

Of Javanese descent, Ngadia, 52, and Rahmawan, 20, like many of the jeans repairers and leather works people in Pertama Complex, are self-taught tailors.

Ngadia, who started out as a cobbler, learned the trade by observing his Pakistani peers, while Rahmawan began working in his father’s shop at the age of 15.

To patch up old jeans, they use a series of zig-zag stitches and another cloth to act as backing for the frayed material. They can also patch the affected parts with leather and give the jeans a whole new look. And they guarantee it will not end up looking like patchwork quilt.

Now, why take so much trouble with a torn pair of jeans? Would it not be better to replace it with a new pair?

Ngadia said some people have an attachment to their pair of well-worn jeans, like children and their security blankets.

Ready to ride: The cowboy look, with studs.

“Most of my customers are reluctant to throw their old jeans away. In most cases, the part most worn out is the part that covers the derriere, while the other areas are still in perfect condition. Most owners will therefore try to salvage the garment because of this,” said Ngadia, who also cited reasons of thrift for the decision to repair the jeans.

But leather patchwork is by no means an economical solution as it may cost the customer at least RM80, depending on the design. So those who opt for this do it mainly for the sake of fashion.

“The trend of leather patches in jeans had come about in the late 80s. It coincided with the advent of the popularity of big bikes. You know the tough biker look with leather jackets and boots? Well, this is a spin off from the trend,” explained Ngadia.

According to Ngadia, the look reflected the rough and tumble lifestyle of the biker crowd.

“Essentially, the leather was a safety feature. If you fell off the bike, the tough hide will prevent your skin from getting scraped,” he said, and indicated how one customer had customised his jeans with built-in knee guards.

While this may be haute couture, it is not a task for an amateur.

Rahmawan revealed that one needs tailoring skills to merge two different types of materials together in a series of smooth seams. Achieving this “flow” can be a challenge as the texture and flexibility of denim and leather are worlds apart.

“The most complicated part, which is also the most common area that our customers want to work on, is the crotch area. As this part also forms the backbone of the jeans, it is likened to disassembling the entire structure of the garment only to reassemble it again after the introduction of a patch of leather. This is where you need to be very, very precise to ensure that the garment does not lose its shape. One slip and you’d end up with a crooked waist line or a bad fit,” he pointed out.

This is one disaster they never want to encounter.

“Most times, only the customer’s favourite pair of jeans is accorded such treatment, and in most cases, they are usually Armanis and Dolce and Gabbanas. If you ruin these, you’d have to face a very disappointed customer,” said Rahmawan.

As to what types of leather are suitable for this purpose, Ngadia who has 23 years of experience, advised that thicker leather be used for the crotch and derriere, while the front areas like the trouser legs and fly could do with a softer grade like goat skin.

“But the whole idea of incorporating leather patches into a pair of jeans is to make it last so that should be taken into consideration above everything else,” added Ngadia.

In retrospect, leather has its own allure, noted father and son. Guys who wear leather come off as macho and girls who do are seen as attractive. But leather patched jeans will give one a different look from the others.

“Your jeans will definitely leave a lasting impression,” they concluded.

Leather patched jeans aside, they also tailor leather pants and jackets and repair racing suits, leather jackets, gloves and handbags.

For enquiries, call 016-343 6813 or visit at FF12, 1st Floor, Pertama Complex, Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman, 50100, KL.