Trendy, tailored choli

Nowadays, it’s not enough to just produce saree blouses that fit perfectly. A tailor also needs to keep abreast of current trends to update her products.

Saraswathy Mariappan, the owner of M. Saras Tailoring, did not say it verbally but her eyes said it all — let’s not get any wild ideas.

She was referring to the made-to-fit, middrift-baring saree blouses and how her male assistant, Ravichandran Veemai, 28, a relative from Chennai, India, takes measurements for customers.

Intricate beadwork: Saraswathy shows off her fine handiwork in a saree modelled by her daughter, Lavaniya Nanthagopal, 22.

Should a customer walk in and place an order, Ravichandran will perform his duties, but meanwhile, everyone maintains a professional attitude.

Inadvertently, the unspoken had to be said and after waiting for the giggles to simmer down, Saraswathy, from Malacca, explained that recording of a customer’s vital statistics has always been an integral part of tailoring, be it for saree blouses or glitzy ball gowns. Any mistakes in that area would result in the customer not returning.

And for this mother of five, who had taken 19 years to build her enterprise, it was not a prospect she was prepared to accept.

Tailoring, insisted Saraswathy, is a form of service, and the relationship between a couturier and customer is not unlike that of doctor and patient.

Trust and skill — not one’s gender — were the requirements.

Flamenco-style sleeves add a Spanish touch to this beaded bodice.

A large part of the tailor’s job, said Saraswathy, was to realise a customer’s vision in transforming a piece of fabric into something that would make her look like a princess.

Nowadays, saree blouses are no longer as simple as the ones our grandmas wore.

The variations are endless and at this moment, it is very fashionable to have low cut backs with beaded strands. Even the saree itself calls for some form of beadwork or embroidery, said Saraswathy.

In this case, Ravichandran, was in her opinion, the best man for the job due to the fact that he was born and bred in a family of tailors in Chennai.

Sheer black top with red embroidery details.

In addition, Ravichandran could complete a saree blouse from scratch in one-and-a-half hours flat.

This, pointed out Saraswathy, was no easy feat considering that the saree blouse can be rather complicated to construct.

A saree blouse has to be very precisely made. The most important feature is in the front, which has to sit properly.

“There were times when I’ve seen blouses which have made the wearer look like she had a lopsided bust line and some had crooked or bunched up necklines.

In such cases, you can wear the most beautiful saree, but you are not going to look good,” insisted Saraswathy. At her store, given her experience and that of Ravichandran, Saraswathy boldly guarantees that no such thing would happen.

Ravichandran can complete a saree blouse in one-and-a-half hours.

“We always make it a point to see how it fits on the customer before she takes it home. If she is not happy with anything, we’ll fix it there and then,” said Saraswathy.

As for the gentleman in question, Ravichandran added that being male did require him to exercise extra tact at times.

“If a customer has opted for a very low back, it goes without question that she should have front padding inserted.

“If she has chosen a design which will not complement her figure, then it has to be suggested very gently that she should choose another,” said Ravichandran, who started sewing at the age of 13.

“You have to be very sensitive because all women want to feel that they look nice whatever their shape or size.

“This is where experience kicks in and discretion has to be exercised. In this case, I’ll make an educated guess on the measurement and jot this down without making the difference too obvious,” he said.

Selvasaras Enterprise is at 23, Jalan Tengku Kelana, Klang. Tel: 016-2375184 or 013-4403771.

Of Sarees and Lenghas

All things bright and shiny are in this Festival of Lights.

This Deepavali, bling is definitely in fashion! According to Subramaniam Kayamboo of Sri Rasi Silks, this year’s celebration of light will have all the elements of Bollywood glamour with sequinned sarees and lenghas.

“In my time, I have seen traditional Indian attire going through many phases of fashion.

For a touch of handsome: Kurtas in maroon, yellow and cream for the men

“In the 70s, stripes and squares were all the rage, for the 80s, there were elements of tie dyes, and in the 90s, plain bright colours with gold borders. This time around, we will see plenty of elaborate embroidery and beadwork,” affirmed this 63-year-old wholesaler and retailer.

This, according to Subramaniam who has 22 years of experience in the business, was a bold step for the Indian fashion industry and its customers.

“In the past, many women and men were apt to shy away from this shiny element.

Sapphire and ice: A blue lengha enriched with beadwork.

“I guess they didn’t feel comfortable wearing so much bling because they might have thought that it was too outstanding. Back then, they preferred a simpler outlook. Even the ladies kept their saree blouses to the basic shape,” he pointed out.

But now, things are very different. With Bollywood and its influence, the women now want to wear what their favourite celebrities are wearing as well.

Symbolically, Subramaniam would view this shiny look as a sign which has many positive meanings for Deepavali. To usher in the celebration of lights, donning a sequinned garment would be very fitting for the occasion. Following Subramaniam’s reasoning, since one can light up one’s abode, why not allow the glitter to emanate from one’s person as well?

One should make it a point to be noticed and have the confidence to come forth, he insisted. At this, he revealed that some of his designs have close to 100,000 stones on the fabric and this, he guaranteed, would really make the wearer outshine everyone.

And this latest trend, said this father-of-five who had started life as an office boy at the age of 12, has an uncanny parallel to the state of his personal affairs as well.

All that bling, he said, seemed to reflect his joy and satisfaction of being the patriarch of a family who had worked together to turn Sri Rasi into a three-shoplot concern.

True to the saying of “A family that works together, stays together”, this unassuming businessman recalled that there was never a time when he had to leave his wife and children behind for the sake of work.

Subramaniam had met his wife, Slivamary Rayappan while both were working in a textile shop. They then started Sri Rasi (meaning “style” in Tamil) and when the children arrived, the family lived above the shoplot. Of course, the Subramaniams’ former home has since opened its doors to visitors who will now find the place filled with endless racks of kurtas and lenghas for they had moved out 10 years ago to a bigger house.

“My wife was the one who helped me the most. She cared for the children and helped me run my shop.

All that glitters: A gold bodice made luxurious with sequins and tassels.

When the children grew up, they came to work for me. So, in a sense, I am always close to ‘home’, surrounded by my family who are also part of the business,” said Subramaniam.

His three sons, Jeya, 32, Selva, 30 and Navin, 22 are each in charge of a Sri Rasi outlet. His daughter Yuvarani, 28, also helps out with the administrative work.

Describing his children as loving, Subramaniam showed off a shirt which was a birthday present from them.

He also revealed proudly that for now, his children handle the bulk of the work in the shop, leaving him and his wife to relax.

“The only thing I do is sign the cheques, nowadays,” he jested. But mind that Subramanian is still in touch with things.

“I can still fold a saree by myself. If you think that’s not a big deal, then you try it for yourself. It’s not easy to fold six meters of fabric,” smiled Subramaniam.

As for stepping out in a sequinned number himself, this doting grandfather’s diplomatic reply was summed up in a simple shrug.

“I’ll see what the children have chosen for me this year,” was all he would say.

Sri Rasi Silks 83, 85 & 101, Jalan Tengku Kelana, 41000, Klang. Tel: 03-3371 3673. Website: www.srirasi.com.